What could be better than hot chocolate for breakfast?

Hot chocolate and pain au raisin of course.

We often have breakfast at Pâtisserie Massoulier on our morning visits to Sarlat. It was so cold and foggy last Saturday that a hot chocolate drink was especially needed to warm us up a little, it was such a welcome treat before we set off to slowly roam around in the market.

Totally delicious.
 

We usually see Glinglin directing traffic around Sarlat centre.
 

Today however, he was directing people around the market with a traffic cone loud speaker. He is such a joy to see and so funny.
 

The covers were up on the market stalls to protect against the Autumn chill of the morning. Which thankfully did not last too long before the sun came out and reached a temperature of 22C.
 

I can never resist taking a picture of “Le Badaud” the relaxed onlooker gazing out across Sarlat Medieval Quarter. The sculpture by Gérard Auliac and can be seen looking out over the Place de la  Liberté.
 

Installation of Julien Lombardi at Sainte-Marie Fountain.
Paul saw an animal painting on the back wall but I saw a landscape scene! Whatever it is the light really helped to illuminate the painting.

Carried out within the framework of the Residences of Art, Sarlat – October 2017
This installation is based on an exploration scene of the Cuze underground canals passing under Sarlat.

JULIAN LOMBARDI
The Imaginary Museum
October 7 to November 19,2017
Hotel Plamon – rue des Consuls and Fontaine Sainte-Marie
SARLAT LA CANEDAEDA
Free entrance from Monday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm
Information
and group reservations
Heritage Service – City of Sarlat
05 53 29 82 98 / 05 53 29 86 68

 
 

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La Rue du temps qui passe…

Nouveau Perigord Noir.

Recently opened, a museum from the time period of 1860-1940. Originally it was a father and daughter who initiated the creation of a museum to showcase vintage cars. It has developed into streets lined with shops of every description as well as artisan workshops, a garage, a weaving mill and more from the above time period.

This is the start of the walk back in time.
 

At the end of the first street is this magnificent Rolland Pilain from 1924.
 

Wonder along the cobbled streets to peer through the windows where time has stood still.
 

Wow a Harley, Paul and I had to go back and have another look, still beautiful after 100 years.
 

Long ago people would push this cart around the streets shouting “Any knifes to sharpen.”
 

A boulangery.
 

The little post office
 

The cheese makers shop with all the equipment.
 

There are a many more shops than we have included above, visit time is recommended to be between one and one and a half hours, so well worth a visit or two. You can also buy a drink at the bar to enjoy in the little Parisian themed cafe.

The Museum has only been open for a couple of months and is to be found at Allas Les Mines just by the bridge that crosses the river Dordogne. The museum is open from April until November 10h-12h and 14h-18h except Wednesday and Thursday. During July and August opening is from 10h-18h, 7 days a week.

La Rue du temps qui passe…

If you are hungry, the Garbarrier is a rather nice restaurant with magnificent views overlooking the river Dordogne, it can be found across the car park from the museum.
 
 

Event:- Castlenaud October 28th and 29th from 10:00 until 16:00. A Medieval Garrison showing the deployment of men at arms, craftsmen, chamber maids and a demonstration of weapons and armour.

 
 

If you go down to the woods today

you are sure of a big surprise!

You will find the famous Josephine Baker and mushrooms!

The sign below tells us:- Josephine Baker (1906-1975) was the first black artist of international renown. A victim of racial segregation in the United Sates, she arrived in France in 1925 at the age of 19 and worked in La Black Revue.

She was a resistance fighter of the 1940’s during the Second World War, she carried secret messages during her travels abroad with her troupe. She was awarded the cross of Chevalier de la Legion d’Honour.

She also adopted twelve children from different continents to create her humanist ideal, which she called “Rainbow Tribe”.

She died at 69 years of age after being chased from her Milandes Château which she named ”World Village and Capital of the Fraternity”. Her children were taken in by Princess Grace of Monaco, who also organised her funeral.

All artistic work is by the children from the Primary School in Daglan, it is truly amazing.

She is dancing on the grass in front of her children, wearing her famous bananas.
More information about this courageous women can be found at http://www.milandes.com/

or visit Château des Milandes 
 

The display is by the still Céou river behind the Salle Des Fetes in Daglan.
 

An idyllic spot for a picnic.
 

These mushrooms were found all around the artistic work. Paul and I are unsure what type of mushroom they are. So we did not pick any. If anyone knows please tell us via our blog.
 

And more, help anyone?
 
 

Daglan on a hot Autumn Sunday.

It promised to be a gorgeous sunny day yesterday and as is usual on a Sunday morning it was to be a picnic breakfast by the shore of the River Dordogne near to Castelnaud. We have been known to enjoy our breakfast picnics on a winters mornings while sitting in the car with freezing conditions outside, but today I think that we are due the lovely mist which meanders its way along the valley.

Picnic all packed and ready to go. Unfortunately Cleo had other ideas. She has taken recently to protesting by sitting either on my handbag or as you can see the picnic hamper. Unsure if she is thinking “take me with you”, or “I am not letting you go”.
 

The mist raising above the trees.

While enjoying the views and the pastries from Maison Carre the sun was busy burning off the mist. Picnic over and back to Daglan where it’s twenty four degrees in the shade and counting. Autumn is coming fast but lets hang on to Summer for a day or two more.
 

Daglan in the sun. This was my second short walk this week. I pulled various muscles in my back a few weeks ago which has been extremely painful but with the help of my physiotherapist, who is brilliant, I should be back to ‘normal’ soon.
 

At the moment the water level in the River Céou is very low.
 

While returning from the river we meandered the pretty village streets, the various homes of the villagers caught my eye.
 

Gorgeous planting complements the exterior of the houses in Daglan.
 

I love the array of pots at the side of the steps leading up to the veranda.
 

I just could not resist taking a picture of my favourite motorbike parked in the village square.
 
 
Events:-
Vitrac 28th September poetic concert of Isabella Marolleau and Jean-Luc Lavergne.
Sarlat 29th September Vintage cars and motorbikes
Sarlat Movie Festival from 14th to the 18th November
 
 

Investigating the narrow streets of Perigueux

As a tip, always head for the medieval quarter of Perigueux on route to the Cathedral of Saint-Front which acts as a striking focal point as you ramble through the narrow lanes; it has a very curious power of popping out at you whenever you think that you are lost. This happened to Paul and I a few weeks ago when we visited the former department capital. However, we did find a few very interesting small boutique shops.
 

A violin shop, the owner makes each instrument by hand, how amazing is that?

I am unsure if these are gnomes or trolls, but never mind they are very cute in the violin shop window.
 

The architecture is stunning in this area which is full of very tempting boutiques, filled with luxury foods, wine, chocolates, cafes and restaurants. Not forgetting the clothes shops of course. However, what we wanted to see was the Renascence architecture which can be found in any of small squares or narrow lanes.

Absolutely gorgeous entrance to the Maison Tenant.
 

Brief accounts of the history of many of the historical buildings in the city are to be found on plaques fixed at the front or side of the property. The above says, this dwelling consists of two habitable units, set at right angles to each other, with a turret at the second flour. Renaissance doorway with this inscription on the lintel: “Remember we all have to die one day. He who enjoys speaking ill of those who are absent, let him know that this house is forbidden to him. The greatest glory comes from displeasing the wicked. This house, built in 1518 with the blessing of the Almighty”.

The tympanum is emblazoned, framed with pilasters with a shell decoration mounted above.

In 1850 the house belonged to a pâté maker named Franconi and in 1897 to Pascal Tenant a friend of Catoire. (A Russian composer of French decent, have a listen to some of his music here, it is brilliant.)
 

Wednesday is market day, held near the Cathedral of Saint-Front. Paul and I had a treat of crêpes with Nutella sitting at an outside table enjoying the sunshine.
 

This stall was overflowing with different breads and cakes of the region.
 
 

Event:-24th September, Vintage car and motorcycles dating from pre 1980’s to be found in Marche Aux Noix Square Sarlat from 10:00 to 12:30.

 
 

Rocamadour Part Two

Rocamadour’s first important patron was Henry 11 of England, who endowed much of his treasure to Rocamadour. His eldest son, the Young King Henry Court-Mantel, stole the treasure along with the Black Madonna in 1183 to pay for his routiers in his war against his father: he even so the legion goes, replaced the Durandel with his own sword.

He had not gone very far when the Black Madonna got her revenge, striking young Henry down with a fever. Full of remorse, he asked his father to forgive him, had an alter put on his neck and laid naked in a bed of ashes and died.

The Bishop of Limoges gave him absolution for his sins due to his father promising that he would replace Rocamadour’s treasure.
 

Basilique-St-Sauveur built into the rock face during the 11th and 13th Century’s is truly stunning.
 

Over the alter hangs a painted wooden 16th Century Christ shown crucified on a tree, his right side pierced by a lance instead of the customery left side.
 

St Amadour relic, who’s bones where hacked to bits during the Wars of Religion by the Huguenot Captain Bessonies who desecrated the shrine.
 

Many of the ships on display are from the Breton Sailors who held the Black Madonna in high esteem.
 

Darkened by candle smoke the Magnificent Black Madonna still holds court today. She is carved out of walnut in the 11Century and sits quite stiffly on her throne with the Christ child balanced on her knees.
 

Outside various walls are decorated depicting various scenes from the Annunciation and Visitation. These two skeleton figures are pleading for salvation.
 

Further up an hairpin walk lined with the Stations of the Cross takes you up to the ramparts of the Château, built in the 14th Century to defend the shrines.
 

Engraved tunnel of copied tombstones, and pledges is fascinating to read.
 

In order to see Rocamadour arrive early in the morning in July and August. Better still arrive in the Spring, Autumn or Winter to avoid the tourist season.
 
 

Events:-

Sarlat : Napoleon Bonaparte, with Josephine and some of his army (complete with a cannon) will arrive for the Historic Weekend which starts tomorrow. Lets just hope for fine weather.

Daglan : The 8 à Huit Supermarket will be closed from the 21st September to the 28th September.

Rocamadour Part One

Voted “the most favourite village in France 2016” it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built dramatically into an overhanging cliff high above the gorge of the Alzou in the Lot Department. It owes its fame and fortune to the late 11th Century cult of the Black Madonna, whose shrine was promoted by the Benedictines at Tulle and who built an hospital next to Rocamadour for the passing pilgrims.

In 1166 a man’s body was found near to the alter. This the Benedictines announced was St Zaccheous, who was the publican who climbed the tree to see Jesus. After the crucifixion he fled with his wife and settled in Limoges. When his wife died he went to live as an hermit and built the first sanctuary in the cliff face. The local people called him”the lover”, or Amator for his devotion, hence Roc-Amadour, the rock of the lover or lover of rock.

The pilgrim road enters Rocamadour by way of the 13thC Porte du Figuier, which is one of four gates that defended the villages.
 

Once through the gate you walk past the various shops and souvenir stands. Selling everything from postcards, ornaments, gorgeous linen tablecloths to ice cream and cakes.
 

To get to the Basilique St-Sauveur you will need to climb the 223 steps or use the lift. In the days of pardon, pilgrims and criminals would climb the steps on their knees in order to be forgiven for their sins. They were bound in chains and led to the Black Madonna where they would pray and then the priest would strike of the chains and give them a lead metal with a picture of the Black Madonna to take back to their village as proof of absolution.
 


 

Another attraction is the Durandal, the famous sword of Roland; the legendary paladin of Charlemagne. Just before he died at Roncesvalles, Roland confined his blade to St Michael.

The Archangel hurled the sword from the Pyrenees straight into Rocamadour’s cliff where the sword sits high above supported by a chain.
 

The workmanship is outstanding.
 

A close up of one of the towers.
 

 

Les Montgolfiades-Rocamadour


23rd and 24th September is the Annual two day hot air balloon festival with participants from all over Europe.